I Suck.
I suck b/c I’ve been spoiled on great California Cabernets. I’m biased, and as much as I want to, I have a hard time objectively viewing a wine that has ANY quality that I’ve come to dislike. In this case, it’s the central coast Cabernet Sauvignons. Almost everything I’ve ever tasted by way of Central Coast Cabernets has been cheap, sugary, swill that was meant to drop the price of a decent bottle 25-50% when they have leftovers of the good stuff.
Because of this, I start off with a biased opinion on the 2006 Treana Red blend from Paso Robles.
Paso vs Napa Terroir
Who’d a thunk you could grow Cabernet in the Rhone Valley, CA? In general, I’m kinda mixed on Cabernets from Paso Robles. They have the lucious, powerful fruit…but the tannins are a little soft. In a way, at least to me, it makes them a little flabby. I’m used to Syrah’s trying to impersonate Cabernet’s, and not the other way around. Syrah’s (esp from Paso) have a way of delivering that fruit ‘punch’ (no pun intended) without that over arching sugary tone to them, unlike the Cabs.
Please understand, this doesn’t make Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignons BAD…in fact, they are everything BUT…but I just feel that it doesn’t allow them to do what they do best. It’s kinda like Napa-envy for that varietal. Granted – I’m speaking ‘en masse’, as most Cabernets that make it to the East Coast from Paso aren’t the high end powerhouses that do it right. Feel free to mail me some – Paso Robles Cabernet producers.
(Sidenote: I have a bottle of ’06 Justin Isocoles downstairs…and I might have a different tune when that one comes out.)
Bottom Line:
This is a giant, hot, fruit bomb which is representative of Paso. The Cabernet & Syrah combo is an interesting one, but in this case it’s one that I’d flip in ratio. The wine offers a great deal in fruit, tannins, and overall structure.
Tasting Notes:
- High alcohol (15.5%) – and you smell it and taste it…and feel it.
- Looooooooooooooooong finish.
- Lots of Mocha and dark chocolate.
- Big juicy fruits – strawberry and currants.
- Baking spices, and licorice.
- If this wine was a dessert, the Cabernet would be a flourless chocolate lava cake, and the syrah would be the raspberry coulis. It’s sugary and rich, but in a high-end kind of way.
I agree with your assessment. I kinda think that Paso is better overall when looking at Rhone varietals and Zinfandel. The Treana to me fit your description of being too soft on tannins and feeling a little flabby. The fruit profile was nice and you do pick up some of the secondary spice notes, but the high alcohol and lack of structure made it all feel clumsy. It’s a shame because when I got my bottle I really wanted to like it. I do think the Cabs in Paso get a little better moving west and in higher elevations- like the Justin you mentioned, I also really liked Adelaida Viking Estate when I had it.